Engine was 'rebuilt' in about 1962 and had only covered about 6000 miles since then. Original idea was just to clean it up. However checking the valve timing suggested the cams were worn out so a full stripdown was done	Engine mounted in a jig ready to be dismantled	Carbon on piston crowns was light and soft and cleaned off with some thinners. Pistons were 20 thou over having been fitted at the rebuild, apparently together with a second hand block as the original was too worn
A bit oily but no gear damage and the oil pump looked in fair condition internally	Camshaft gears being removed with the 'proper' puller	Home made puller. The narrow 'feet' fit being the crankshaft gear. The cap fits on the end of the crankshaft to stop it belling out when centre bolt is tightened up.
Crankshaft gear puller being used	Engine was heated in the oven in order to release the main bearings from the cases	Outer drive side ball bearing was loose on the shaft but could not be removed due to a lip which had been worn on splined shaft by the primary drive shock absorber sleeve
Ended up having to cut through inner and outer bearing race to remove	One tappet block had been put on slightly twisted and the securing bolt had damaged the block.	New 'ramp' cams were purchased (LF Harris) to replace the worn non ramp origionals. However quality control seemed poor as there was damage to one lobe
The replacement was even worse. Eventually got two that were OK. Cam bushes were within tolerance but the exhaust outer bush need releaving on its outer face as it had been damaged by the gear wheel key when it was fitted during the 1962 rebuild causing the gear to bind when torqued up	Cases had a layer of black sticky oil inside but were undamaged. Bearings were replaced. The inner roller bearing outer was re-fitted in the heated case with 609 green Loctite..BIG mistake..when it cooled it gripped the inner rollers too tight. Fitting without Loctite cured the problem	Cases had a layer of black sticky oil inside but were undamaged. Timing side roller bearing was replaced with a ball bearing and the chip shields were left out
Crankshaft appeared to be OK	Crank journals were only lightly scored but were still within tolerance and the crank was re-used	The bearing surface is directly into the Hidiminium of the conrod and the end caps are white metalled. The surfaces were slightly scored and the cap had a few holes in the white metal of the cap. They were still within tolerance so were re-used
There was quite a bit of soft sludge built up in the crank	Sludge had also built up between the crank webs	The oil way through the crank was about a third full
The sludge from the crank was dissolved in paraffin and the sediment that settled out was dried in the oven. This picture shows that there is a lot of ferrous particles in there being picked up by the magnet. Good reason to clean the sludge trap out if condition is unknown. A high detergent oil could have released some of those ferrous particles into the oil	Crank fully cleaned. New bolts were used when rebuilding. They are 1/4 inch and high tensile. I read the torque was 250 lb inch (about 20 ft lb) but LF Harris who made then advised 12 Ft lb	Engine cases and flywheel after a hot wash cycle
All ready to go back together	Ready for the pistons and block	Main shaft bush in timing cover was replaced with a seal. Work done through a company on Ebay who also reprofiles all the cam followers
All back together. Rockers and valve springs were in good condition. Valves were OK and just needed grinding in. Barrel and head were cleaned, painted with 2 coats of smooth hammerite and after a week put in the oven gas mark three for an hour.